The omega Air-King came about as a response to the popularity of larger cases with legible dials. Air-service men and women, especially in the RAF, would often opt for 33mm omega Oyster watches. Don't get me wrong 33mm watches are practically diminutive these days, but back in the 40s, this diameter was considered oversized. Therefore, the continuation of this diameter became inevitable.From 1957 to 1990, the omega Air-King reference 5500 was in continual production. The Air-King may not have had chronometer certification but the cost-effectiveness certified it as the entry point into the Coronet. During this time, it was typical for omega to partner with firms to gift Air-Kings to employees...
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For quite some time, fans of Grand Seiko have been hoping for a more centralized presence in Europe. And finally, it seems those prayers have been answered. On April 1st, 2020, a new subsidiary of the Seiko Watch Corporation, Tokyo, will set-up shop in Paris. Say hello to?Grand Seiko Europe S.A.S., the Japanese giants next step on its march around the globe.The wholly-owned arm of the Asian business will handle all the sales and marketing of the brand and its products across the continent of Europe. For those of us that a) love the brand, and b) work in the business of covering its moves and releases, this is incredibly welcome news. The products themselves are rarely in question. However, t...
Omega is surprising each and everyone with the new Speedmaster Chronoscope collection, and its not even a (Speedy) Tuesday. It is also the introduction of a new movement for the Speedmaster, caliber 9908. A hand-wound two-register movement that has been Master Chronometer certified.The first thing to notice about this new 43mm Omega Speedmaster Chronoscope are the scales on the dial and the applied Arabic numerals. We have two of the new models here, the silver dialed reference 329.30.43.51.02.001 and the blue dial reference 329.30.43.51.03.001. Chronoscope is not a new name indeed, in case it sounds familiar to you. Omega has used it before, for its De Ville collection. Fun fact: Buzz Aldri...
Italy is known for bold design and expert handicraft. The watches featured in this edition of Watch Dating Profiles bring that and then some. Bold, striking, and unapologetic, these watches get as close to a short red dress or Italian Barbera red wine as any watch can. The Unimatic U1 Classic is a thick and bold yet minimalist approach to the classic dive tool watch. The U-Boat Classico 45 Tungsteno Movelock is large, loud, and demands ones full attention. Finally, the Panerai Luminor Marina ref. PAM01313 embodies Italys incredible history as the modern-day iteration of one of the worlds first dive watches. Its still bold, but also the most elegant watch that Italys boldest watch designers c...
I have a weak spot for aventurine dials. These glass crystals with copper inclusions represent to me a starry sky. A perfect dial for dress watches or elegant ladies watches. Enter the Bvlgari Lvcea!Using this beautiful material isnt new to watchmaking. But unfortunately, only a few brands dare to use it and Bvlgari is one of them. The main problem with this material is that it can easily crack during the production process. And since it is not cheap, a lot of brands stay away from using aventurine for their dials.I wouldnt mind Bvlgari come up with a gold Octo with an aventurine dial.With the release of the new Bvlgari Lvcea models, there are now two more watches with aventurine dials to ch...
Oris new Big Crown ProPilot X Calibre 115 has been a surprise. Not that no one believed Oris could make such a watch, but virtually nobody expected it. With this watch, Oris proudly expose their ability to create extraordinary movements. Besides, they present a strong statement on their vision of the design for a future pilot watch. Fasten seat belts and lets lift-off to an exploration of this remarkable timepiece.In 2014 Oris reverted to manufacturing own movements. After a break of decades, they celebrated their re-establishment as manufacture by creating Calibre 110, a watch named after its movement, whose name, in turn, reflects Oris 110th anniversary at which they presented it to the pu...
Every once in a while, this discussion comes along. In forums for newbies, but also in forums for the more knowledgable collectors, like Watchrap.com.Aside from differences in the look feel of these two brands, people also tend to question which movement is better. Better in terms of finish, accuracy, durability and??robustness. At WatchRap, someone asked this question about the Omega caliber 1120 (based on ETA 2892-A2) and omega caliber 3135 (inhouse).Jack Forster??wrote an answer that seem to cut some wood (Dutch saying):As far as robustness goes, Id have to give the edge probably somewhat to the cal. 3135 as it uses very, very tried and true materials and its pretty much optimized to kee...
The ever-charming Antoine Pin of Bvlgari fame sits down with Rob to chat about his life in the industry, how his experience has shaped his approach to watch design and story-telling, and what possibilities might lie in store for Bvlgari in the future.In an energetic chat, Pin explains how he became bewitched by the industry and never managed to stay away from it for long. The fusion of passion, talent, and manual skill enthralls him on a daily basis at Bvlgari, and his guiding why not principle has led him to many happy design discoveries.He touches also on his perception of the effects the COVID-19 pandemic has had on the industry and what we can expect to see from brands as they adjust the...
Panerai announced their?partnership with Luna Rossa, the Italian team which is the first to challenge the defender of the 36th Americas Cup. Because of this partnership, Panerai will introduce a number of watches dedicated to Luna Rossa. The first one we are able to show is the PAM1039, or Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible. Lets have a closer look.Officine Panerai?Luna Rossa Challenger SubmersiblePanerai introduces to you their Luna Rossa Challenger Submersible. Not only carbon fibre (used for the hull of the AC75 ship) is being used, but also a piece of the sailcloth of the Luna Rossa AC75 boat. With a 47mm case made of Carbotech (based on carbon fibre material), you can be certain that thi...
Buying a omega is not easy. That applies to new and pre-owned omega watches. With a new omega watch, the problem is availability. If you dont want to become a victim of the entire waitlist scheme, theres the pre-owned market, for example. But buying a pre-owned omega watch isnt easy either. I experienced that as recently as the last few weeks while I was hunting for oneIn this buying guide, you will find some tips on what to look for, where to look, and how to prevent you from ending up with something you dont want. If you are in the market for a used omega watch, there are a number of important things you need to know before you make the purchase.Pre-Owned omega Buying GuideDo your homework...
Its been a good year for Bobsled Bobbys Box of delights. Not only has it got its own nickname now, but its also welcomed several new additions from all over the more affordable end of the luxury watch spectrum. Nothing on this list of my Top 5 watches exceeds 3,000. Some of them come in at ridiculously affordable prices. And when I say affordable, I mean affordable. Im not the kind of guy to assume that everyone can easily lay their hands on 1,500 to buy a new watch at the drop of a hat. But 28? I reckon thats something we can all at least aspire toI know these lists arent often ranked, because, as all parents find, its tough to choose between your kids, but here Ive taken the practical appr...
Did you read my stories on uni-compax chronographs within $1,000 and $5,000 budgets? If so, you might already have a newfound love for this genre. While you might expect this part to have a $10,000 budget, I'm jumping the shark and going straight to chronograph heaven. With a budget envelope saying, The Sky's The Limit, the choices are as difficult as they are dangerously tempting.What if you are unrestrained by monetary worries, or like me, you enjoy a good daydream now and then? What do you buy? At this level, the chronographs available range from classic elegance to futuristic panache. Choose between stealth wealth, heavy glamour, and a micro-mechanical monochrome masterpiece. Not all of ...
And once again, just when you think youve seen it all in terms of vintage tool watches, something surprises like the Rado Over Pole.Man, its good to be back writing a TBT article.? Were so excited to have Tomas here on the team and he continues to share some fantastically different vintage pieces, but I couldnt let him have all the fun, could I?? So, for the first time in months, Im back in the well worn saddle to document a really cool watch that I truly stumbled upon in the Rado Over Pole.An Unexpected and Rare FindI was cruising some Japanese sites not too long ago when I truly stumbled upon the vintage Rado Over Pole.? I had never seen this model before and I spent a lot of time looking...
If youve spent as long in and around the luxury watch industry as I have, youll know the feeling Im about to describe: sometimes, you love a brand for all the right reasons and adore its products because each and every one has a distinct character, a story to tell, or a level of craftsmanship that blows your mind without seemingly having to try, and yet somewhere, in the back of your mind, you feel like there might be more to come. Often, in ways we cannot predict, brands are still able to surprise us. And, in doing so, show us a vision of something yet more majestic that could be just around the corner. The A. Lange Sohne Little Lange 1 Moon Phase first bewitched me, before sending me on a...
You probably recall the Jaeger-LeCoultre Geophysic 1958 Tribute that was introduced in 2014 (we wrote about it here). At the time also a limited edition that came in three different case materials: stainless steel (800 pieces), pink gold (300 pieces) and platinum (58 pieces). A tribute to the original 1958 Geophysic, with a 38.5mm diameter cases (instead of the original 35mm). All three watches were equipped with the Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 898/1 movement. Then, in 2015, Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the Geophysic True Second, with caliber 770.Above the 2014 limited edition on the left (in platinum), the original 35mm version on the right. Below, the 2015 Geophysic True Second.100 Pieces Only...
Vintage SpeedmasterIts Speedy Tuesday When you buy a vintage Speedmaster watch, one of the thoughts that might occur is that you wonder what kind of life the watch had before you bought it. Who bought it in the first place? Why did this person picked this watch? Where has the watch been? This of course, goes for the watches that doesnt come with provenance or are not inherited. Although even then it is still interesting to ponder about these things.Todays Speedmaster in our weekly Speedy Tuesday topic is one that has seen things that we can only dream about. Watch enthusiast Guido Maniscalco bought this vintage?Speedmaster Professional 105.012 from the widow of an inspector at Vandenberg Air...
If you missed your chance at the most recent Breitling Superocean 57 Limited Edition, you now have a chance at a slightly different follow-up model. Significantly, proceeds will aid charities that support frontline healthcare workers in the battle against COVID-19.Just over a month ago, we shared news of Breitlings latest capsule collection. The Superocean Heritage 57 was announced during a video stream led by Georges Kern. While the watch could be considered as a somewhat niche offering, I threw my money behind it within a couple of hours of its release. After all, this watch recalls one of my all-time favorite vintage watches while adding some modern twists such as size and build quality. ...
Filling out another niche in the Sixty-Five collection from Oris is a collaboration with an independent jeans manufacturer, Momotaro, based in Japan. The strap takes an off-cut of indigo denim with two white battle stripes on the buckle end of the strap.The twin stripes are a motif of Momotaro in their collection of high-end denim jeans and jackets made using vintage looms. While it wouldnt vibe with the majority of my wardrobe, this strap would be the perfect complement to a street or sports outfit. As interesting as the strap is, however, it is that gorgeous dial color that steals the limelight....
Rob and I talk about the big news from omega, Tudor, and Patek Philippe that was announced on the first day of Watches Wonders.We discuss the new omega Explorer, Explorer II, Daytonas, and new Datejust dials in detail in this podcast. The responses were all over the place yesterday, and so are ours. A bit different for Tudor, with some proper new releases in silver and gold. And its new Black Bay Chronograph, of course. We have these watches in the Fratello offices for a closer look and will be publishing a hands-on review soon. Last but not least, we talk about the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 in steel, with a green dial. Will this really be the last Nautilus in steel, or will they keep it...
Hej, happy campers, its time for This Week in Watches for July 6, 2019.This week, I dont really have a rant-worthy topic prior to getting into This Week in Watches.? Its not been?too hot here in Germany (sorry, Serbians, you are feeling it right now) and the ground is stable (do take care, SoCal denizens), so whats there to mention?? Well, how about this?? We now have e-Scooters roaming around in Frankfurt.? Thats not a whole lot different than some other cities, but?damn, the users of these things dont know what theyre doing quite yet.? Its amazing, but true, that one cannot text while using one of these lest they wish to end up as a piece of roadside hamburger but theyre trying.? It does ...