How many chronograph nuts do we have in the house tonight? Judging by our loyal following of Speedmaster fans, I'd venture to guess quite a few. But whether you love you some sub-dials or just prefer a nice three-hander, we all know what a chronograph's main job is: to record elapsed times.When you think about it, this fairly obvious function that unites all chronographs is nevertheless rather remarkable in the swath of its utility. Need to time something? Anything? It's got you covered. 100m sprinter Jesse Owens's 10.3-second Olympic victory in 1936? Check. A life-saving 14-second fuel burn during the Apollo 13 mission in 1970? Double check. My 6th-grade science teacher's record-setting tri...
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Not so long ago, in 2020, Vacheron Constantin released its second iteration of the g rie collection with a completely new design. Today the new g rie comes out Indeed, it is a high jewelry timepiece but very contemporary regardless. For me, it's a very significant design that changes perspective on ladies' watches, and here's why-We have two new models to assess: the 18k white gold and the 18k 5N pink gold Vacheron Constantin g rie. These watches are set with 912 round-cut diamonds, turning what would otherwise be a demure 35mm case into a devastating glitter explosion. Among the (beautiful) noise, it is almost lost that the crown sits at 1 oclock a nice touch that gives the case more to ...
Thank you for tuning in to the Fratello Auction Report. As some of you may know, auctions have continued to boast strong results this year. This coming after a surprisingly bullish run in 2020 amidst pandemic issues that reshaped the landscape of the watch business. World record prices have been set by online buyers, watch dealer trade shows have transformed into WhatsApp groups, Baselworld is pretty much dead, and modern/new watches have taken a firm position at the forefront of dazzling record auction prices.Since most buyers are more comfortable pulling the trigger on a new or recent watch online versus a vintage watch, it can, in part, explain why watches from the 1990s to new ones among...
I will save my sentiments about Vacheron Constantin this year compared to last year to our daily recap later on today. Now it is time to talk about a watch that isnt perhaps the most accessible (read: affordable) watch in the world at 95.000 Euro, but it did make my horological heart tick faster. I am talking about the new full gold Vacheron Constantin?Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin reference?4300V/120R-B064.Gold?Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-ThinCompletely in line with the gold fever I am suffering for a while now, this watch is to me one of the coolest pieces I have seen at the SIHH so far. This Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin combines a number of i...
Crisis. A Patek Philippe butterfly clasp is covered with hairline scratches. Was it my doing? Incredulously, I realize that it was handed to me in this condition. I find myself torn between a feeling of shock and happiness. The same clasp is worth more than a top piece or two in my own collection, and yet it is scratched. But why does this fill me with happiness? Have I lost my marbles? Is it schadenfreude? Or is it something elseThis is the first time I've handled this enigma of a sports watch on a rubber strap that goes for 50-60,000 Euros pre-owned, or new after a 5 year wait for your local AD to get one in stock, and, for me, it's a momentous occasion.The occasion was made all the more m...
I never really liked Coke too much.I was always a Pepsi guy. No, I'm not talking about the drink. I could not care less about the age-old debate of which soda is better. I'm talking about two specific omega GMT-Masters. The choice is between Pepsi (blue/red) or Coke (black/red) bezel inserts.I shared the reasoning behind my decision to go with reference 1675 in this old TBT article of mine. To me, the colors on the bezel were the primary factor. I liked the look of a vintage Sub, but I dug the GMT with its Pepsi insert. It added a pop of color to the watch. For the longest time, I thought that no other GMT would take its place. Until this week cameDon't worry, I'm still Team Pepsi, but for ...
Collecting vintage watches is something that I truly love. The watches, the people, the endless searching for knowledge are all part of the gig. Making mistakes, getting ripped off, and, again, the people represent some of the pitfalls. Over the past ten years, Ive been through a lot of it, and have I learned anything? Id like to think so sometimes.Vintage watches are my thing and during our Collectors Week here on Fratello, I thought it would be fun to share some of what I have learned on this fascinating journey. Well, its fascinating to me at least Seriously, though, collecting has been a wild ride and pretty damn introspective too. So, perhaps some of my thoughts wont resonate while othe...
It has not gone unnoticed that we organized a Speedy Tuesday Event for all those people who are passionate about Speedmaster watches. A lot of media announced the happening on the 29th of October and we have to say that were overwhelmed by the people who joined us for the Speedy Tuesday Event at the ESA-ESTEC official visitors centre, Space Expo. A BIG thank you to Omega who made it all possible for us to organize such a cool event. The Speedy Tuesday Event and the support from Omega on this has been the crown on our work regarding the weekly Speedy Tuesday articles.The Omega team making it all possible, special guest James H. Ragan (in the blue shirt) and Fratellowatches Robert-Jan Broer.Th...
Yesterday I joined the press conference in the Cite du Temps in Geneva about the new watch certification based on new quality standards for the Swiss watch making industry. This news was communicated by Omega and METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology), more specifically by Nick Hayek of the Swatch Group, Stephen Urquhart, Andreas Hobmeier?and?Raynald Aeschlimann of Omega and Christian Bock of METAS.After I received the invitation I quickly googled what METAS was about and it appeared to me that something was coming regarding certification. However, I could not foresee what it exactly would mean as they do measurements and tests in all kind of areas. So I was happily surprised yesterday...
We have a weak spot for affordable mechanical watches. There is absolutely nothing wrong with dreaming about a complicated piece of haute horlogerie with a flying tourbillon from one of the prestigious big brands out there or from one of the indepedent watch makers. But in all honesty, how many people are fortunate enough to actually wear one on the wrist?Here at Fratellowatches we have a weak spot for brands who are capable to put an interesting mechanical watch in the market that is affordable and nice to wear on a daily basis. With the Legend Diver (a review on it can be found here), Longines caught our attention as a brand to keep an eye on. After that, we reviewed their Heritage 1951 ch...
Cartier is one of the only constants of watchmaking, defiantly sticking to its guns whatever may come. Whether the trend of the year is green, small watches, or large tool divers, Cartier keeps its identity and focus. Granted, we have seen the occasional dip into unknown waters with the release of watches like the Calibre de Cartier divers. But when you think of Cartier, the first image is of a Tank or a Santos, designs that have endured for over a century. That said, the best Cartier watches arent strictly rectangular. Even round wristwear has its place among the brands greatest designs.Though there is no getting away from geometric cases, yes, there is more in the refined and very French c...
On April 17, 1970, the Apollo 13 crew landed safely on Earth after some incredibly scary moments onboard the module. The Speedmaster played such an important role on the return trip, that NASA decided to give a Silver Snoopy Award to Omega on October 5th of that same year. Some think the Snoopy cartoon on a Speedmaster is a bit childish, but often, those people dont know why it is there. In this article, well explain how Snoopy ended up on the dial of a Speedmaster.In 1970, NASA astronaut Thomas P. Stafford presented a Silver Snoopy Award to Omega. Not everyone realizes how important this award is. It is an award given by NASA crew to staff or contractors for their special contribution and o...
Longines Conquest HeritageLongines seems to be spot on with the Heritage models that they are introducing. We recently did a comparison review between the original Longines Flagship Heritage and an original Longines Flagship (you can read it here), but it seems that Longines is taking the release of the Conquest Heritage a step further and makes it a real tribute by even using the 35mm case size of the original version. Thats right, 35mm. It is quite daring even, for a watch brand to release a mens watch in 35mm these days.Although we appreciate the efforts of a lot of watch brands to create something retro, to use ingredients of watches from the past to create something new, to target the a...
The third model in the Breitling Premier Heritage Collection is the new Premier Datora 42. This is the most complicated model within the series, so lets take a look.Theres no doubt that today is a big day for Breitling. The brand has released three distinct new models within its new Premier Heritage Collection. Theres the manual wind Premier Chronograph, the sublime manual wind Premier Duograph rattrapante, and the Premier Datora 42. In this article, we focus on the latter and, once again, were impressed.A quick look backJust like the other Breitling Heritage models, the Premier Datora 42 takes its inspiration from the brands back catalog. Fred lent another picture of a 40s Datora reference ...
Bezels. They split opinions almost as often as they are themselves split by two contrasting colors. While the two-color GMT bezel has a practical origin (to communicate daytime and nighttime hours at a glance), they have become just as appreciated for their aesthetic qualities as anything else. The omega GMT-Master II Pepsi still stands atop the mountain when it comes to the most sought-after releases in the last five years. But havent we supped enough Pepsi? Isnt it time for a fresh flavor to carry us into 2022? Here are my top five suggestions of what omega should do next.Given that the bezel of a GMT watch is a painfully obvious canvas for expression, it is kind of crazy we dont see more ...
This week, we had the good fortune to visit Omega in Biel for a speedytuesday get together. For certain, the occasion will always be remembered as the world debut of the resurrected caliber 321. But there was something else that was divulged during part of the program that truly piqued my interest the absolute truth on two of the other references that were tested by NASA when selecting what would ultimately become the Moonwatch. Yes, folks, you will read the black and white truth about two of the watches that didn't become Moonwatches.? These are the other NASA-Tested watches.The Other NASA-Tested WatchesPetros Protopapas, the Brand Heritage Manager of Omega, held a 90 minutes long forum ...
Who knew that Swatch still had that circa 90s FOMO swagger? Sometimes, all it takes is a little help from our friends. In this case, Omega stepped in with an 11-part stonker. Im writing this prior to the official sale date of the MoonSwatch, but its safe to say that these watches are hits Im never one to stop at the current, though, so lets talk about what Swatch collab could be next.Ah, Swatch As a dorky teenager, I was certifiably hooked on these fun and often colorful plastic watches from Switzerland. I still remember the lady, Marguerite, who ran the accessories area at the Boca Town Center Bloomingdales. Yes, its true that I had a bit of a nerdy crush, but she was super friendly. As I b...
Ateliers deMonaco is just over one year old (6th of April 2009) and time for Olivier Muller (The Watch Lounge) to do an excellent write-up on this Dutch / Monaco haute horlogerie brand.From left to right:Christain Arbili, business development manager Ateliers deMonacoHSH Prince Albert 2 of MonacoRobert van Pappelendam Initiator and co-founder Ateliers deMonacoPim Koeslag Master Horloger ateliers deMonacoPlease read more about this brand at The Watch Lounge or read an earlier article on Fratellowatches here and here....
Oris recently released its Sustainability Report for 2022. Its almost 50 pages of accounts of progress and promises for the future. Like some corporations that compile information for their shareholders in a sleek, savvy package, the Oris Sustainability Report is a seductive package for the environmentally-minded. It succinctly covers where Oris has come from and where the brand is going. I have to say, Im impressed, as I have been following Oris for a while now. But my question is, is it enough?Look, Im a bit of a sustainability kook. In another life, Im a professional arborist, climbing and taking care of trees in an urban forest on the West Coast of the United States. I was raised with st...
Fratello On Air is back This time, Balazs and Mike come back to case materials and focus on precious metals. Specifically, we discuss gold and platinum along with some of our favorite examples. Before we get to the main topicPrecious metals are in play this week, but Balazs and Mike also pick up on the latest news and releases from the LVMH brands First, though, its time for a Handgelenks Kontrolle and Balazs is sporting a pair of light blue DOXA watches the SUB 200 and SUB 300 while Mike is enjoying his new MING 17.09 in blue (everything runs well, thanks for asking).Some news and onto precious metalsThe news was fast and furious over the past week. We discuss the King Seiko Collection and ...