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Shadow Warriors: What Do Vacheron Constantin, Czapek, Moser, Chopard, And Girard-Perregaux Have In Common?

You like the idea of it, its shape, and the overall aesthetic. Youve done a little bit of research, and decided that you want a Royal Oak or even a Nautilus but that goes without saying. Both Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe have calculated a price for these watches, which can be found in their respective catalogs.? With your eye on the price tag, youve saved up and grown your savings to match the magic number. Alas, to no avail Your AD says he can't help you. But not to worry, there are many alternatives that cater to your specific needs, as long as you don't mind another name on the dial. To guide you through an alternative watch world, we put together a list of shadow warriors: a battal...

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Head-To-Head: Omega Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Vs. Speedmaster Calibre 321

When Omega introduced the Speedmaster 60th Anniversary in 2017, it was a big thing It was a tribute to the original Speedmaster reference CK2915, but with the calibre 1861 movement. Then, in 2020, Omega introduced the 105.003 tribute with its calibre 321. How do these two watches compare? Is it worth going after a Speedmaster 60th anniversary, or do you want to save up a bit more for the Speedmaster Calibre 321?After publishing our video where I compare the Speedmaster Calibre 321 with the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Master Chronometer, I received some requests to have a look at the Speedmaster 60th anniversary as well. And then, last week in the SpeedyTuesday Facebook group, someone...

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Perhaps I was wrong on the Milgauss

On the 10th of August, I wrote this post about the (new) omega Milgauss ref.116400, almost a year after its introduction during Basel 2007 (which I covered here). The post wasnt very positive, because it seemed to me that the Milgauss wasnt the immediate hit omega had hoped for. However, fast forward to 2009, it seems that the hype regains a bit. The availability of the Milgauss improved (you can even find the green sapphire version quite easily) and the prices dropped to an interesting level.My watch friend John Chan has traded his Date-Just for a Milgauss (black dial) and after trying his and one at the airport, the watch doesnt let me go. Last week, I ran into JK, owner of JKWatchStore.nl...

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What Does It Mean To Be A Cartier Man?

Earlier this year, Cartier introduced a new watch for men, Calibre de Cartier. A few years ago, Cartier introduced the Santos 100 to fulfil the demand for a more masculine watch, the Calibre de Cartier is their next-gen masculine watch with in-house movement. And perhaps this new model does the trick even better!I tried on the Calibre de Cartier during one of their events and I must say that I was quite impressed by the look and feel of this watch and perhaps just as important, the price tag. A list price of just below 5K Euro makes this watch an interesting competitor for the usual suspects as a stainless steel omega, in-house Panerai or IWC. However, what does it mean to be a Cartier man? ...

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Two Speedmaster Broad Arrow Alternatives To The Speedmaster Calibre 321 In Canopus Gold

This year marks the 65th anniversary of the Speedmaster, and Omega started the celebrations by showing us a beautiful Calibre 321 in Canopus (white) gold. However, even though we think it is a beautiful watch, its only available for the very lucky few due to its 80,000 price tag. But that doesnt mean that there isnt an alternative available.In this video, RJ talks about two alternative choices that feature the same Broad Arrow hands. The Speedmaster ref.3594.50 and the Speedmaster 57 60th-anniversary edition. One is based on the 42mm Moonwatch case and the other has the same straight-lug case with a diameter of 38.6mm like the Calibre 321 in Canopus gold.Speedmaster Calibre 321 in Canopus go...

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Steel Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary - This Is It!

Omega celebrates one of man's proudest achievements with the release of the Steel Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary.In what must qualify as the most hotly anticipated new watch release of 2019, we have the Steel Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary limited edition from Omega.? Whether you're an Omega fan, a space geek, or a history buff in general, 2019 was bound to be a big year.? Amongst Speedmaster lovers, the chatter about what could be considered as one of Omega's most important commemoratives began well over a year ago.? And now that day is finally here with the new ref. 310.20.42.50.01.001.? We're excited to show you some live pics that we were fortunate enough to take during t...

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Buying A Pre-Owned Omega Speedmaster: How About Its Accuracy?

It might not be the first thing that comes to mind when buying a pre-owned or vintage Speedmaster, but what kind of accuracy should you expect from a pre-loved timepiece? Most of the buyers and collectors are more concerned about the watchs aesthetics than the technical condition of the watch, it seems. Lets have a closer look at the accuracy of the Speedmaster and what falls within acceptable parameters.In my opinion, patina has become a bit of a buzzword. Sometimes, it is as if it is the only thing that matters when it comes to buying a pre-owned or vintage Speedmaster. Sure, it is important how a watch looks, but theres more to it than the yellow or green color of hour markers. Ive made t...

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A Video Review On The New Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award

In this 12-minute video, I discuss the new Omega Speedmaster? Silver Snoopy Award, but also show the previous Snoopy Award watches from 2003 and 2015. Also, the Apollo 13 25th anniversary edition gets a mention, as that one was really the first to commemorate this special Apollo mission in 1970.The comments and feedback on the new Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award have been pretty amazing (see our initial review here). As such, its time for us to talk you through all Speedmaster Snoopy watches that have been out there since 2003.Omega Speedmaster Snoopy EditionsAfter seeing the new Speedmaster Snoopy in the flesh, it immediately became my favorite of the three. Based on the comments on o...

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Vacheron Constantin ref.4591 - A Stylish Beauty From The 1950s

A few weeks ago, when I was visiting my friend Gerard over at Horloge Platform Nederland, he showed me this incredible beauty of the 1950s, a Vacheron Constantin ref.4591. It reminded me of scenes from The Godfather when the Corleones hang around with Moe Greene in a Las Vegas casino. Somehow, 1950 watches do that to me, I might be the only one though.So, what it so special about this watch? The main thing is the shape of the crystal, which is quite difficult to photograph I assume. But as you can see on the picture above, there is a small folding line from 3 oclock to 9 oclock. Although it is a relatively small watch (25mm wide, 8.5mm thick and a length of 38.5mm, including the lugs), it wi...

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Patek Philippe Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava Watch In Steel

New releases from Patek Philippe dont always feel this new. We are used to seeing minor updates to a collection that often feels more entrenched than established. But that is fair enough. When you can arguably claim to be the G.O.A.T. why mess with a winning formula? However, with the release of the Patek Philippe Ref. 6007A-001 Calatrava watch in steel, the Genevan manufacture has shown its aware of how much times are changing.For the past five years, Patek Philippe has been working on a new manufacture in Geneva. The Plan-les-Ouates site was signed off in 2014 to aid Patek Philippes desire to internalize as many aspects of production as possible. Some interpreted the manufactures construct...

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Hot Take: omega Datejust 36 Reference 126234

This classic is considered to be the mother of all modern wristwatches, and every collector at least needs to have one or have tried it.The Datejust was actually my first omega. I got it in 2002 when I finished university and went straight for the Datejust in 36mm with a white gold fluted bezel and Jubilee bracelet. It is basically one of the omega watches I respect most and this year we see an updated version of that classic. Lets forget about the Sea-Dweller in gold steel for a moment (that Michael covered here) or the new omega GMT-Master II Batman with Jubilee that I wrote about earlier yesterday. The Datejust release is less controversial, very safe even, and thats what I feel omega is...

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Bert's Photo Book Part 3 - Watch Macro Photography

When writing my first photo book article, it brought up some of the things I have learned over time. It also shows some specific topics related to watch photography which I find fascinating. So after mentioning lume photos, there is another topic which is about the details. Though the years I've created many watch macro photos that reveal details that can be hard to see with the naked eye.Watch macro photos simply reveal the true beauty of a watch, or, occasionally, the not so perfect craftsmanship. Thankfully that rarely happens but through the years only a few blemishes have crossed my lens. When this is something you don't want to find on a new watch, vintage watches are something differe...

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Strap Check: My Lovely Wonky And Wobbly Bonklip

Welcome to Strap Check, a column on Fratello where our editors showcase their favorite watch/strap combinations. We all know the feeling. When youve been wearing a watch for weeks on the same strap, there comes a time when the excitement starts to fade a little bit. Maybe thats the time when you start looking. But looking for what? A brand new watch? Sometimes the answer lies not in the watch, but the strap on which you wear it From the classic to the unique. From cheap NATOs to bespoke leather and special bracelets. This is where we get excited about perfect combinations that make you feel like youve got a brand new watch on your wrist. So tune in every week for a new Strap Check. Are you i...

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Leather One Watch Winder

I am a huge fan of watch winders. The practical ones that is, the ones that dont take up too much space and do the job right. Now, I have written on winders before (a 2009 watch winder review and one in 2005) and always wrote that you should be on the look-out for a programmed or programmable winder. This means that the winder will work a few programs in such a way that your watch gets enough excercise to keep on running. Although I cant imagine that you are still able to overwind your watch, a running watch is still better than a watch that stands still. This probably has something to do with the synthetic oil that thickens a bit after a long period of non-wear.Anyway, the Leather One Watch...

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Wrist Game or Crying Shame: omega GMT-Master 16700

Wrist Game or Crying Shame is here to see if you value history with a look at a omega GMT-Master 16700.Before we get into the omega GMT-Master 16700, lets spend a moment on last weeks subject, the Yema Bipole Duopoly.? For $569, or less than most of you spend on a pair of city-bound retro mining boots, you thoroughly denied this French oddity with a crushing defeat to the tune of 60% calling it a Crying Shame.? Ah but wait!? While the 40-percenters clearly lost the battle, one such Wrist Game voter climbed the highest mountain because he chose to vote with his wallet!? And that person was none other than Jason Heaton of?The Grey NATO,?Hodinkee, and other fame.? Now Jason calls the eternally ...

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Suiting Up With A Diver: The Top 10 Watches For This Divisive Yet Cool Look - omega, Tudor, Seiko, And More.

The diver is the new dress watch. OK, stop shouting. Yes, this is still a controversial topic for some collectors, I know. We all know the old rules of a dress watch with a white shirt and jacket, and no watch at all with a tuxedo. But a dive tool watch? God forbid, thats only for aquatic activities (though exceptions can be made for a wooly jumper or a denim shirt). Look, I am past 50, and even I know that this is an ancient way of thinking. We don't have to look any further than the Oscars to see stars suited up with a diver on the big night of tuxedos and gala dresses. A majority of suited wrists were rocking big tool watches, with slim shirts straining to contain the large weapons. Or wa...

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Hands-On With The Omega Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Limited Edition 38.6 mm

Yesterday we introduced you to the Omega 60th anniversary trilogy. Today, we had our meeting with Omega and had a closer look at their new collections. We received many questions and comments about the Speedmaster. Lets try to answer a couple.Speedmaster 60th Anniversary Reference?311.10.39.30.01.001I can be super short about the new Omega Speedmaster 60th anniversary limited edition. I ordered one. So did two other guys of the Fratello Watches team. We were simply blown away by it. Based on the comments and likes we received on Instagram and Facebook and the numerous e-mails and whatsapp messages we received, you like it as well but have some questions.How many?First, there is the differenc...

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Interview With IWC's Creative Director Christian Knoop

2012 was IWCs year of their Pilots watch. The introduction party of the new Pilot collection during the SIHH in Geneva last year has been topic of several discussions. Whether it was positive or not, at least IWC got everyones attention for the Pilot collection. Here in The Netherlands, we had our own introduction day of the new IWC (TOP Gun) Pilot collection. A report of that day can be found by clicking here.Just before IWC is ready to launch the new Ingenieur collection in the next coming weeks at SIHH 2013, we look back at the Pilot collection with IWCs Creative Director, Christian Knoop. I sat down with Mr Knoop in the Dylan hotel in Amsterdam and asked him the following questions:Mr Kn...

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5 Reasons Why The New Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer Is So Great

Just in case you are looking for a reason to buy one of those new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer watches, I will list five of them in this article.If you joined our last Speedy Tuesday GTG in December 2019, the new Moonwatch Master Chronometer wasnt really a surprise to you. During that event, Omega announced that its caliber 3861 will be used in a new Moonwatch. Those who have been paying attention over the last few years, know that every first Tuesday of the new year means a new Speedmaster introduction.The New Moonwatch Master ChronometerWith the introduction of the new Moonwatch Master Chronometer, the former famous caliber 1861 Moonwatch has been discontinued. You might ...

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A Speedmaster Collector's Vintage Omega Constellation Watch

Im sharing a story from a passionate Omega Speedmaster collector and his connection to his late grandfathers Omega Constellation. You may know him on Instagram as @dan_occasionally_likes_things. For brevity, I will just refer to him as Dan.But before we get into our discussion, I want to explain some backstory into my digital friendship with Dan.When I began my professional career around seven years ago, my father gifted me his 2006 Breitling Aerospace Avantage. Breitling introduced the ref. E79362 in 2005 and changed the name to Aerospace Avantage. The advantage this reference brought was the back-light on the LCD screens. In 2007, the name reverted to just Aerospace with the COSC text on t...

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