Back in January when the new Bvlgari Octo Finissimo S with a steel silvered dial was introduced, Rob called it a possible contender for the watch of the year. But is it really? Time to find out. I had a chance to go hands-on with the steel Octo Finissimo model that is closest to the original concept of the titanium version that was introduced in 2017. The big question is whether it is better than the black and blue dial versions in steel? With those two models appealing to a broad audience, could the monochromatic steel version take the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo crown? As it turns out, the answer is not that simple.As most of you know by now, quite a few Fratello team members are fans of the Bv...
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Besides a chronograph or GMT, there are only a very few mechanical complications one would need. Purists can debate whether a tourbillon is a complication, but its one of those examples of a complication that has little use today. Its just there to admire and enjoy.A perpetual calendar is somewhere in the middle. Having a calendar on your wrist that shows the day, date, month, leap-year, and moon phase, is simply pretty cool. It might come in handy, but its mainly there to show the craftsmanship of Swiss watchmakers who are able to program a calendar for the coming centuries.Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 42The first word that comes to mind when putting this watch on the wrist is impressive....
Master watchmaker Franz Wolff (Lottermann S? ??hne) created the Crazy Planet. With ?e??? ?Crazy Planet?e??? developed and produced entirely in house Blancier is once again introducing a watch of unparalleled world class.The most important wheels of the Crazy Planet are laid out in a planet orbit formation. In normal mechanical watches, all wheels are invisible, hidden under the watch face. Blancier has made wheels visible by displaying the workings on top of the watch face. This Tourbillon-like design, in which wheels have actually been incorporated into the hands, makes Crazy Planet not only technically impressive but also aesthetically attractive....
Jean-Claude Biver is a living legend and has been a purveyor of high-end watches since he was 18. His passion for watches stems from his childhood joy of steam machines and mechanical objects. In bustling West London, PHILLIPS PERPETUAL hosted a collection of Jean-Claude Bivers treasured collection of watches. During the evening, Biver divulged his story on his rise to the Head of the LVMH Watch Division.Spear-heading the marketing for the Royal Oak soon after its launch, Jean-Claude left Audemars Piguet for Omega. Appreciating the art of watch-making from AP and understanding the business at Omega gave him the great impetus to purchase the fledgling Blancpain brand. In a short time, he turn...
One of the big bummers of the BaselWorld 2009 show was that I was unable to take a closer look at TAG Heuers new watches. The gigantic booth had this display in front of it, with both the old Monaco (1133) (it was the actual watch that Steve McQueen wore in Le Mans) and the new 40th anniversary Monaco.The girl (a rented promo model with a cool leather TAG Heuer Gulf jacket) couldnt allow us to go inside the booth to make some decent pictures and she was also told NOT to give any press kits to the press (I had a press card via Perpetuelle).I wonder if thats really the policy, since TAG Heuer at least floods my mailbox with ALL of their new releases and celebrity news. Anyway, since there was ...
For a long time, quartz watches were to be neglected by the watch enthusiast. Watches without a soul, could often be heard. But that seems to be changing: meet the Longines Conquest VHP GMT.Longines introduced their new collection of VHP watches in 2017, guaranteeing accuracy with a maximum deviation of 5 seconds per year. VHP stands for Very High Precision, and thats exactly what it is. Already in the 1980s, Longines had their VHP quartz watches but they disappeared again at some point. In those days, the accuracy was impressive, but not what they promised back in 2017. Longines is not alone in their battle for the best (quartz) accuracy: Grand Seiko is pushing hard with their 9F quartz mov...
It doesnt take much research to know that Sylvester Stallone is a huge fan of Panerai watches. He even ordered custom made Panerai watches a couple of times, featuring Slytech on the dial.Amongst others, Stallone had 200 pieces made of the Luminor Marina (ref.?5218-207/A)? with a white Slytech dial (which was auctioned in 2006 for $ 16,520 USD, see picture below). It was called the Luminor Daylight Slytech and exactly this model inspired Panerai to come up with a new model that has similar features. This new white dialed Luminor Daylight is part of the Special Editions PAM000785 set that Panerai introduced during the Hong Kong Watches Wonders exhibition.Special Editions PAM000785Panerai is ...
Whether you are reading this because you would like to communicate your smartness more effectively or because youd like to compensate for lack of smartness, you have arrived at exactly the right place. Heres my rundown of the Top 4 watches for making anyone look smart.Far too often, unfortunately, watches are worn to communicate wealth. This doesnt do justice to our beloved timepieces. Nor does this attitude value the craftsmanship that watchmakers invested in their design and manufacturing.Fortunately, it does not have to be this way. Watches can be appreciated for their other, truer values. Designing a watch in a way that makes you appear smart requires a lot more than a prestigious brand ...
Breguet expands its collection of Classique wristwatches with a new, blue, solid gold dial.For the past three hundred years, the name of Abraham-Louis Breguet has been one of the most revered in watchmaking circles. The man himself was a celebrity. He gave us a great many innovations that continue to impress todays audience. And yet one of my most enduring memories of Breguet occurred only two years ago. I was at Baselworld 2018 and had stepped out of the Hamilton booth after my appointment. Greeting me in the center of Hall 1 was gigantic super-yacht (I swear it had not been there thirty minutes prior).The reason for the super-yacht in the middle of a convention center in a land-locked coun...
Nope, no Reverso to be seen at Watches Wonders this year. Jaeger-LeCoultre made things complicated for 2022 by presenting a variety of round-cased watches. At the top of the list, there's the Master Grande Tradition Calibre 948. Just below it, you will find the Master Hybris Artistica Calibre 945 Galaxia in pink gold and the Atomium version in white gold. And last, but certainly not least, the brand from Le Sentier introduces a complicated athlete with endless stamina. Its the sporty 42mm Polaris Perpetual Calendar, which comes in either rugged steel or sophisticated pink gold.At first, I thought I was missing something. That I overlooked something. That I didn't see the full picture. But I...
The Speedmaster World Cup Group Stage is in the books. Its time for the head-to-head contests to begin. Over the next two weeks, we will run two quarter-final match-ups each weekend. One on Saturday; one on Sunday. Our intrepid warriors made it through blood baths of their own making, but now they need your help to fight another day. Only one man can progress from each quarter-final to the next stage. The choice of who receives that honor rests with you. Let battle commenceThis quarter-final is defined by adding a bit of color to the trusted Moonwatch. Red and white to be more precise. From reading the comments and looking at the number of votes, you guys like a Speedmaster with a colorful t...
Speedy Tuesday is about sharing the passion for Speedmasters. No more, no less. Whether you have one Speedmaster or three dozen (or more), the collectors lot centers on their love for the Speedmaster watch.I like to hear stories about Speedmasters. What triggered someone to buy a certain Speedmaster or a Speedmaster in general? Every time I see someone wearing a Speedmaster, I am not too shy to ask about his or her watch. Without exception, theres always a story to it. Whether it was passed down, or Moon landing related, or simply a gift for a graduation, all the people I have asked about their Speedmaster know exactly what they are wearing. And, best of all, they know why.Speedmaster 145.00...
At the 2019 Only Watch auction in Geneva, Patek Philippe surprised both everyone and no one simultaneously when its stainless steel Grandmaster Chime (ref. 6300A-010) became the most expensive wristwatch ever sold at auction. It pulverized the previous record, held by Paul Newmans personal omega Daytona, by over CHF 14 million. But even more fantastically, the one-off steel version of Pateks most complicated wristwatch raked in a jaw-dropping sum of CHF 31 million for charity. That watch alone amounted to over 80% of the proceeds raised for the Monaco Association Against Muscular Dystrophy at Only Watch that year. And as the third consecutive Patek Philippe offering to take the top spot at O...
The first time I ever laid my eyes on a omega Day-Date was when I was a student. I thought it was quite an impressive watch, and ever since then, I somewhat played with the idea of getting one when the time was right. And just the other week, the time was finally right, and I bought myself a Day-Date 18238.The omega Day-Date debuted in 1956, and to this day, not much about the watch has changed. That's the power of such an icon, but perhaps it's also the reason why it is such an iconic watch after all. This watch does not need much introduction. You probably know or have seen it many times. The omega Day-Date is only available in yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, except for (...
The 1815 was my first high-end piece, acquired back in 2003. I still remember the sleepless nights and moments of indecision during the course of the decision process. Several other pieces were also in contention: the JLC Master Geographic; the Chopard 1.98; one of the Patek Calatravas; the AP Jules Audemars Automatic.All images in this article can be clicked on for larger versionsSo why did I go with the 1815 in the end? Quite a number of reasons, actually. First impressions, the case had a heft that belied its size and none of the others quite managed to convey the same impression of density. Then there was the dial color; a sublime dark blue that under some lights was electric, and unde...
There are few brands that can lay claim to a following as fervent as the Paneristi. A group of watch lovers so passionate, they spawned their own, official model. As a publication with some experience of the same, we have to say this: Respect where respect is due. Panerai, after all these years, continues to keep an old design fresh. With the new PAM01661, Luminor Marina gets a taste of Carbotech.The Panerai Luminor Marina is a classic. No doubt about it. The Luminor range was created in 1950, but didnt go on sale to the public until 1993. When it did, the Luminor Marina joined the collection and has been a fan favorite ever since. The fact that for so much of the brands history its watches ...
Just like last year, the watch press is being overwhelmed with novelties that are going to be presented during the Baselworld exhibition. Some brands show the product in all its glory already, no secrets to unveil anymore and others are only showing you bits and pieces of their upcoming releases.Last year, Omega leaked information regarding their Omega Speedmaster Professional Tintin a day before Baselworld started. This year, they showed some teasers on their official Facebook page with bits and pieces of a new Omega Seamaster. Among the +500.000 fans of that page, there were some Photoshop magicians that were able to unraffle the mystery without much hassle.Although we will not be sure unt...
Recently, we did a hands-on review of the new Longines Spirit watches. It is a pilots watch, new to the Longines Sport collection. We talk to Longines Head of Product Development Xavier Ligero about the Spirit and how it came to life.Our Fratello on Air podcast is available via Buzzsprout, Soundcloud, Apple Podcast, Google Podcast, Deezer,? Stitcher, and Spotify.Talking to Xavier LigeroThe Longines Spirit is a watch that looks so familiar, yet it is new to its collection. The pilot watch DNA is clearly visible, which also derives from the Ministry of Defence specifications for pilot watches. In this podcast, I talk to Xavier Ligero, head of product development at Longines since 2014. We disc...
The Hublot Big Bang Rainbow King Gold is probably as bold of a watch as it gets.I mean let's be neutral as much as possible here and look at the facts. Hublot is a very divisive brand. On the one hand, their marketing strategy is something I'm pretty sure professors will teach at universities soon. They know how to make a product that their target audience literary lusts after. Not to mention that not every model line is loud and in-your-face, perhaps not as much as the Big Bang watches. On the other hand, this aforementioned target audience is something that many watch fans (not Hublot fans, there's a significant difference) do not necessarily mingle with. I mean I hardly can imagine someon...
The SalonQP event in London, held from the 11th of November till the 13th of November, was a great success. Ive been to the event on Thursday (opening night) and Friday, and on Friday Ive made a few pictures to give my precious readers an impression of SalonQP.Of course, I also took some pictures of the timepieces that were there on display. However, for all photos, please visit the Photo Report topic over at WatchUseek (by clicking here).If you havent been there this year, try to visit the SalonQP 2011. I surely had a great time looking at all these magnificent watches, talking to the people over there and meeting with Gerard Nijenbrinks of Horloge Platform Nederland, Ariel Adams of aBlogto...